Kashgar again
Day 43 – 290kms. (12,679 kms total)


…Alas…our attempt to beat the custom’s process fails. We are refused any movement through the border without the right documents – namely the vehicle import document.


We plead ignorance, insanity, stupid tourists and sit looking lost and forlorn… but to no avail.
We told them that we had no other docs but they called the border at Korgos and they ratted on us.
I asked what happens when our visa expires? We get arrested… Back to Kashgar then….
We return to Kashgar along the same road (the ONLY road), as yesterday, but at a different time. The scenery is just as spectacular, but different due to the light and approaching from the south and take lunch en-route at a Chinese establishment. Oddly, the request for fried rice brings the same meal as yesterday, but much more palatable.

We resume residence in the Seman Hotel and email the agency to see if we can negotiate a fairer price.
No response until the following day but the morning’s discussions do not go well. The person with whom we arranged our trip is not part of the agency – a freelancer. Though she told us everything was covered in our payment, she, allegedly, told the agency we would pay on arrival. Alas our only proof of this conversation is residing on John’s PC in France, where the lines are down & so can’t be forwarded. (though whether it would make any difference is doubtful).

No deal is done on lowering costs and if we don’t like it, we can be reported to police for traveling unaccompanied with insinuations of prison etc. According to his own words, a guide is only “recommended”. Bluff and double bluff.
We are also told it will take a day (minimum) to process our papers at customs in Kashgar, (tomorrow), before we can proceed to the border.
We reluctantly trawl the banks and abuse our plastic to the tune of 1100 Euros, to cover the costs.
Our yearning for adventure does not stretched to the experience of Chinese gaols.


Now a full day, (minimum), to do nothing but sit and stew or get drunk.
Stay positive- things will come together and you will soon be on the move again!
Monica Hindle | 1 July 07 | #Commenting is closed for this article.
John & Mick's BIG Adventure