John & Mick's BIG AdventureThe Road to Skardu
Day 49 – 211 kms (13569 kms total)
Only 2km out of Gilgit and the dirt ‘road’ is flooded for 100m.
Even lorries are struggling in the foot and a half deep lake. We watch for a few minutes and spot the detour round the side and manage to ride up the bank and follow the tractors that are also avoiding the water.
Back on the road we follow the valley of the Gilgit River, which was joined by the Hunza a few kilometers north. Clouds are building over the high mountains already, but 30km down the road, we leave the KKH and turn north east on the road to Skardu.
Crossing a rickety wooden bridge we enter the Indus Valley and work our way along the pot-holed, and often sandy single track road that is cut into this steep gorge. On our right, we snatch a fabulous view of Nanga Parbat (8125m) before disappearing into the valley.
The Indus valley separates the two mountain ranges of the Karakorum to the north and Himalayas to the South.
The silt laden Indus river crashes through this valley with incredible force. Its noise discernible even wearing a crash helmet.
As well as the appalling road, lorries and minibuses blot our path. The lorries are generally good at letting us pass, whichever direction they are going. Minibuses think they own the road and blast past us with scant regard for our size.
Six hours of hard riding takes us the 179km to Skardu.
We stay at the Mashabrum hotel which is clean, smart, has parking and internet connection, though this transpires to be dial-up only.
The hotel overlooks the Hagisa Nala river bed and there are views of the mountains to the east, south and west.
Skardu is in the province if Baltistan. You may be familiar with a Balti at the local Indian Restaurant. Nothing like it here and its not in India! Ha-Ha!
The portion of rice at dinner is large enough for four, and we have ordered one each!
Accompanied by a Dhaal, chicken bones (chicken massala) and bread, but only costs 500 r.
A visit to K2 is off the agenda. Its 2 days drive to Askhole in a jeep and a further 6 days on foot to Concordia base Camp… and we are bikers.
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