John & Mick's BIG AdventureNo traffic on the Road !
Day 18 – 342 kms (6341 kms total)
We left our Atyrau digs and when we found the road out, it was in fantastic condition. After 10kms, towards Aqtobe, there is a “camping” place on the right which looks more like a hostel, but I guess nobody in town knows about it. Shortly after that a restaurant /gastinitsa – probably lots cheaper than where we stayed – damn! There was a lot of racial trouble with Turks a few years ago in Atyrua, so they advise foreigners not to go around at night. How serious it is – who knows.
The fabulous tarmac continues for almost 100km, before it disintegrates to virtually nothing. It had been destroyed!
We reached Maqat and followed the signs through town but obviously missed one and despite asking locals for Aqtobe, they all nodded and pointed along the road, which vanished into a nothingness, through a rubbish tip and VERY off-road.
We made it back to the main road after 40 minutes of bouncing around.
Knackered!
It is not just a few potholes, in places there is just nothing to ride on but dirt. In fact, the locals have taken to driving alongside the road on sand, because it is a better surface. We got tired of dodging potholes and bouncing around and finally took to the side as well. It’s really hard work and very slow going. We were averaging about 40km an hour.
The towns listed on the map along the way either aren’t there or are tiny villages full of farmers. No hotels or restaurants are apparent and most locals do not seem to know much Russian – however quite a few are happy to use the few words of English they have picked up… We sussed out the coffee houses, but didn’t get to eat much. Quite often they don’t have anything in stock anyway.
We had another few runs in soft sand which though we are beginning to master, is still hard, and I nearly ran into John when braking, dropped my own bike. He got going and then I dropped it again. Damn hard to pick up after a days riding.
We stopped at a coffee bar at about 6pm, expecting a coffee and to head on to reach a town. Fortunately a chap called Abroy came out to meet us with his excellent English, and arranged for us to spend the night there.
We ate Borscht and then drank beer with the family. But we got a very hard, squeaky floor to sleep on and were up at 6.30 and out by 7. The guy shaking my hand swore he had seen me before…
To start riding on broken roads from minute one is hard, but we soon got into the swing and the road improved a little beyond to Shubarqudyd. There was a whole stretch under roadworks, which we thought would leave us with good road thereafter, it wasn’t great, but by the time we hit Qandygash, it was 80kph roads with the odd slowdown to dodge holes.
We stopped for petrol before Aqtobe and met a French chap in petrol station who invited us home where we could pitch tents and stay over.
Arrived at a very basic caravan and hut where they had no running water, but were very welcoming. They were new Christians which made John very anti.
When someone burns their hand off because he thinks “god told him to do it” its time to get the straight jacket out! Nutters.
Also, being so remote we couldn’t get a phone signal. So we had coffee, listened to the chaps testimony and made our way into Aqtobe.
The first hotel we found was 5000 Tengy a night each room and only single rooms. We continued and asked at a petrol station where they were really helpful and a chap led us through town to a large hotel, which was very central and turned out at 4300 Tenge per room. Add parking and breakfast = 5500 tenge (20 quid).
We have decided to stay an extra night and catch up on things we need to do. Though the telecom office is across the road for internet, there is one in the hotel, but is shut in the evening, so we tried across the road, but their line was so slow, it was useless. We ate at the restaurant beside the hotel and paid handsomely for the privilege – 20 quid !
. Be safe mate and enjoy. ( you Lucky barstard) Commenting is closed for this article.