Electrickery

We have a few bits and pieces to add to the electrical system to help support the array of technology we will take with us.

The heated clothing is hard wired to the bike with two floating sockets exiting from the nose of the seat. There, they can easily be stowed away when not in use. The controllers, or Heat-Trollers, I have mounted on the dash. One either side and just above the existing switches for hazard lights and heated grips. The power lead is led back to the auxiliary fuse box that is mounted on the rear mudguard.
This fuse-box came from Nippy Normans and is made in the US by Centech. We have obtained some weatherproof connectors to use wherever a junction is required. Also from the US.
The Fuse-box now has a layer of “potting” applied to seal the components from the weather – available from Maplins.

The GPS and Autocom systems have been hard wired via a small toggle switches so the power can be isolated.

Upgrading the alternator is not really an option due to the spiraling costs – it would be another €450 to find!

The Diode board mounts have been changed from rubber to solid alloy – Two of the rubber mounts had already failed! The rational being that the older models used solid mounts and had no problems with the diode board falling off(!) and shorting/mashing the alternator that sits just below it.
There is also a thought that, as there is better heat dissipation through metal than rubber, the diode assembly should last longer.

The alternator regulator has been upgraded to the model used by the various police models as they run low RPM’s on escort duties and have extra lights on. This means the charge output should reach maximum at lower RPM’s and as we envisage a lot of track riding and just gawping at the scenery, it should help maintain the battery in good order. The old unit will be taken as a spare.

Talking of the battery, that’s been changed to a Hawker PC680 dry unit. Smaller and more powerful than the standard item.

The BMW’s are fitted with a DIN 12volt power socket just under the battery tray. I have added 2 more sockets that run from the Centech fuse-box to the under-seat tool tray. They have a “flying” lead that is long enough to go into the tankbag. I need two because the camcorder needs a feed and so does the “bullet” camera. Also used for AA battery charger, etc., etc.

There is one more area of the electrics that can cause problems – the starter motor. The standard unit is made by Valeo, (French), and the magnets are glued into the housing. This starter is also used by various cars.
The problem is overheating that can cause the magnets to become detached and mash themselves and the rotor!
There are 2 fixes available. 1 – drill and tap the casing and magnet to add a screw to hold the magnets. 2 – buy a Nippon Denso starter motor for about €230,00.
Option 2 has priced itself out of the running. Will attempt the screw route at some stage.

The next instalment is here
Posted on 26. February 2007 by John Shales

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